ByOleg Romanenko 2019-03-16 686
The only difficulty that may arise along the way is that a working AUX cable is required, which is a cable or connector from other working headphones with a piece of wire. AUX cable is cheaper then buy headphones, but there is no microphone in it, so if you have a headset, you will have to accept the fact that it will be cut down the microphone and buttons. But how nice when not working headphones will sing, and the lack of buttons is not do dangerous.
Now there are quite tolerable wires ranging from $ 0.5. The wire used in the article cost about a dollar. Well, I think a knife for paper, a lighter and scotch, and so everyone has it in the house.
Cut in 5-7 centimeters from the connector, and better still further. You should not cut it short. if screwed up, then there will be no way to fix it. And better when the junction is located away from the connector.
The most convenient way is to incise the sheath just like in the photo. No need to press the blade hard. Due to bending, the sheath itself will diverge. Turn the wire, making cuts and, when the circle has passed, we remove the sheath. The main thing is not to cut through the wires.
To strengthen the thin copper wiring, manufacturers intertwine them with nylon thread. And kapron, as it is known, burns well. It is not excluded, by the way, that the varnish also burns. Therefore, for a split second, bring the end of the wire into the fire. It flashes quickly and lights up slightly. When it burns 1-1.5 centimeters need to blow on it.
Lacquer and kapron leave a small residue, which in most cases is easily cleaned with a fingernail. As a result, we have peeled from intact wiring.
The main thing is not to keep the wiring on fire for too long, because they may just burn and fall off.
Cut the wire with it. Usually the wires of the headphones break right at the exit from the connector, and in order to surely cut off the broken part, cut off 2-3 cm above the connector. It is possible and even higher - as you like. Expose them to the wiring and clean them of varnish as well as we did with the AUX cable.
The wires in the headset is clearly more than three - five of them. Two wires are responsible for the microphone, and three for headphones. The disheveled gold wire (ground) was wound on top of a thin white microphone.
Now we face an impossible task - to twist the necessary wires together. In fact, everything is simple! Three AUX wires to three headphones.
The most common colors:
● Ground is golden (yellow)
● Left is blue (green)
● Right is red
But like any other rule, it also has exceptions, especially for headsets. For example, it happens that the right one is green, the left is blue, and the red one is a microphone or there are also mixtures of colors. But the GOLD is always GROUND. A mixture of colors with gold, in most cases also ground.
Therefore, first of all we twist all the gold ones among themselves. Now alternately twist the wiring of the repaired headphones with the wiring of the AUX cable. The bottom line is that the red wiring of the AUX-cable connector needs to be twisted with the red wiring of the headphones and then the right headphone will sing. In your case the colors may differ and it may be that red needs to be twisted with blue or something else. The main thing is gold on the ground.
Since we cleaned the varnish from the wiring, now they have no insulation. If you close the twist between each other, then either you make yourself mono or chop off one channel. Therefore, it is necessary to isolate them in order to prevent closure between them.
First we isolate each twist separately. In addition to the isolation itself, it will also strengthen the joints. Now we connect everything together with a wide scotch tape, layers of 3 - 4. Or 5 is a matter of taste.
Here is the long-awaited result of all our efforts. Maybe it looked like something long, but it is not at all so! 15 minutes is enough for the whole process. The main thing is to understand what you are doing. And I hope that now you understand how to fix the headphones without a soldering iron.
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